The history of pasta alla Nerano: the land dish born a stone’s throw from the sea

We are on the Amalfi Coast, literally on the beach. In Campania there are two iconic vegetables from June to September: tomatoes and courgettes dominate the tables from appetizers to desserts. In reality there is no real “official history” linked to spaghetti alla Nerano: fried courgettes, pasta, caciocavallo are three common ingredients in all homes in the area and it is likely that this recipe was created

However, there is a legend, which certainly has a grain of truth, linked to this famous dish, which has also had a pleasant improvement over time. The one putting together the pieces of this story is Bruno Manfellotto, former director of L’Espresso and great friend of the Caravita family. The dish is linked precisely to this noble lineage because it was apparently prepared for the first time in honor of Francesco Caravita, prince of Sirignano, known as PUPETTO

The scion of the family would have gone to the Maria Grazia restaurant, a small inn founded in 1901 to feed fishermen and which had become very famous over time, thanks also to its enviable geographical position. In 1952 the turning point for the restaurant and for the cuisine of Campania as a whole: Pupetto arrived hungry after the crossing from Capri to Massa Lubrense but Maria Grazia’s pantry was practically empty. The kitchen makes do with what it finds: the last courgettes from the family garden, the remains of the caciocavallo, some leftover pecorino and dry caciotta, oil, salt, spaghetti and cooking water in which to stir the pasta. Before service, a few basil leaves and voilà, the first spaghetti alla Nerano arrives at the table, to be served to the Prince of Sirignano. The “official” birth of spaghetti “with courgettes” alla Nerano dates back to this evening, a dish that has become a regional symbol with a legend that fuels fascination and curiosity.